When "In Vino Veritas": from the grapes of tradition to sips of the future

It’s September.

And for once, no thoughts about new beginnings, school starting again, or the melancholy of vacations ending.

No.

I’m lying on the grass with my eyes closed, and I see myself as a child again. A late summer day, running through the rows of vines in my grandfather’s vineyard. Baskets full of grapes lie on the ground, there’s my grandmother, my mom’s uncles, my cousins, and even the neighbors - we’re all there. The cart next to us is overflowing with bunches, and between laughter and jokes, completely unaware, I’m living one of the best moments of the year (dare I say, one of the most carefree and joyous days of my life): the day of the grape harvest.

This memory came back to me because, a few days ago, my cousin—yes, one of those cousins, the kind of person who knows everything about your childhood, who shares with you secrets and untold stories of your family—told me how grandpa used to work in the fields with a bottle of wine instead of water. I must admit, at first, it seemed odd to me, probably because I associate wine with fun moments, not work. However, Matteo quickly explained that, even in the relatively recent past, drinking water wasn’t always of good quality due to the conditions of local aqueducts, and for many, drinking wine was a necessity, as it was safer (for example, I later found out that the Friuli Central Aqueduct Consortium was established in 1931, and at the start, it only served 13 municipalities - Hey, what do you think, maybe in a future newsletter we could talk about the “blue gold”?!).

As I reflected on this, I realized just how much the world of wine is changing and how, one sip at a time, this sector too is undergoing the ecological transition needed to understand and reduce its impacts.

Wine production, in fact, raises significant environmental concerns, including land management, water usage, and greenhouse gas emissions. For this reason, the wine industry is evolving towards more conscientious practices.

Sustainability in wine production is often expressed through "integrated viticulture", a method that skillfully blends the best practices from different sectors: from biological and non-biological pest control to agronomic systems and vineyard ecology, but that’s not all. This approach, constantly evolving, is rooted in a strong tradition, continuously enriched by new and modern innovations.

But how much do consumers really understand about sustainability in the vineyard and in wine? According to the study “Positioning and Development Prospects of Organic Wine in Italy and International Markets” by Nomisma Wine Monitor, consumers associate sustainability with: respect for the environment (26%); minimal use of fertilizers and pesticides (16%); respect for the cultural and landscape heritage of a region (14%); environmentally-friendly packaging (11%); protection of biodiversity (10%); respect for workers’ rights (7%); and attention to the economic development of the producing company (6%). Moreover, this interest has firmly entered purchasing habits, with 1 in 2 Italians now reporting that they consume organic wine.

Wineries have quickly adapted to respond to this growing attention from consumers: the production of “green” wines has increased, along with confusion surrounding the different types. In particular, the differences between organic wine, biodynamic wine, and natural wine aren’t always clear (and does “natural” really even exist? I’m not so sure). And even less understood are the identifying aspects of certifications like "VIVA", "SNQPI" and "Equalitas-Vino Sostenibile". Only by increasing this knowledge can a true wine lover make more informed, genuinely sustainable choices that truly reflect their “enogreen” values.

But there’s certainly one BIO aspect of vineyards where we excel. Do you know what it is? Biodiversity!

In fact, we are the country with the highest number of native grape varieties in the world. Currently, no fewer than 642 wine grape varieties are registered in our beautiful country. And if you think that’s all, wait: 75% of Italy's vineyard area is divided among over 80 different varieties, while our competitors like France and Spain top out at less than 15. And to cap it all off, our territory boasts over 520 DOP and IGP denominations, a true feast for wine and biodiversity enthusiasts.

This richness isn’t just a joy for the palate but plays a crucial role in supporting global biodiversity.

Also, by now, the enemy is no longer lurking in the shadows-it’s fully manifested: climate change. Climate change is rewriting the map of viticulture in Italy and around the world.

Different genotypes could prove useful for all of viticulture, as only a few wine regions in our country can boast a varietal assortment capable of tolerating extreme climatic conditions.

If global temperatures rise by more than 2°C above pre-industrial levels, according to a recent study, up to 70% of traditional wine regions may have to say goodbye to their vineyards by the end of the century. Heatwaves and droughts are already a nightmare for vineyards in Spain, Italy, Greece and California. But not all is lost: northern states like the UK, Oregon, and Washington could soon become the new wine paradises, with areas suitable for viticulture potentially growing by 80% to 200%!

It’s not just heat; excessive rain can also be a problem, as it promotes the spread of downy mildew, a pest that thrives in humid climates and can infiltrate the wood of the vines, causing losses of up to 30% of grape production in some areas.

However, winemakers are not discouraged and are responding with ingenuity. Drones and satellites fly over vineyards, while researchers create grape varieties more resistant to new climate conditions. Traditional techniques, like natural fertilization (green manure), are making a comeback to enrich the soil. To combat the heat, cover crops are being used to keep the fruit cool, along with smarter irrigation methods. Viticulture, in short, is adapting and reinventing itself, especially since we mustn’t forget that the vine is a resilient crop, capable of withstanding changes-that’s why it can grow all over the planet, from Bordeaux to Napa, to Chile and South Africa. Still, the challenge is tough and must not be underestimated.

Now, be honest, don’t tell me that all this wine talk hasn’t made you crave an evening with friends, savoring the “poetry of the earth.” I’d say we could plan to meet up at Friuli DOC, don’t you think? See you there-after all, someone once sang that happiness is "a glass of wine with a sandwich"!

Chiara Pontoni

Sustainability Manager, Gesteco